The morning of the final day of our big adventure to Royal Leamington Spa was a 20 mile trip to see Upton House. There appeared little information from National Trust sources about the origin of the property, so a little research was required for the enquiring minds of our members.
The original house was destroyed c.1500 as the land was cleared for pasture. Original Tudor elements are no longer present. The estate passed through various owners until it was bought by Sir William Danvers in the early 17th century. Then, in 1688 Sir Rushout Cullen purchased the estate, building the house for himself c.1695. From 1757 to 1927 the house saw three new owners. It was finally acquired by Walter Samuel, 2nd Viscount Bearsted in 1927 as a country retreat. The magnificent House and Gardens we see today is the lovingly redesigned and extended original honey coloured house of local yellow ironstone.
Entry into the house is by time slots and I was pleased to arrive for the entry at 11-11.10 am. Walking down the long driveway, to the imposing north front gave an air of excitement. The driveway was flanked by striped lawns and the house was framed by manicured hedges. A woodland walk beckoned to the left and I later explored the creative bark pathways and tree log alcoves. The house doors opened promptly at 11am and we were welcomed by the guide who gave an introductory talk. Wall tapestries hung in the entrance and we were enlightened about the previous owners, Lord and Lady Bearsted, who had donated the house, garden and art collection, to the National Trust in 1948. Lord Bearsted inherited his money from his father, the founder of the oil company Shell Transport & Trading.
He used his vast fortune to improve the estate and create a large collection of art to entertain friends and to enjoy country pursuits. Lady Bearsted commissioned Kitty Lloyd-Jones to transform the utilitarian garden into a haven for leisure and pleasure.
In the dining room, the art displayed was on a sporting theme, also three unusual Stubbs’ depicting active rural scenes, with a horse pulling waggons. Apparently, the paintings were of a friend’s aged horse and his old dog, and painted by Stubbs during his visits.
The long gallery had been created by combing three smaller rooms, and Dutch paintings were the feature hanging on the walls. In addition, many cabinets containing English porcelain from Chelsea, Derby and Bow, stood along the walls. The gallery was furnished with a variety of chairs, small settees, side tables, lamps and photographs that gave a house atmosphere.
The small sitting room was dedicated to Lord Bearsted’s prized art – Tintoretto’s “The Parable of the Wise and Foolish Virgins”. The painting had returned after major conservation work at Royal Oak Conservation Studio, Knowle, Kent. Next to the painting, the X-ray was displayed and information panels mounted on the opposite wall. An enthusiastic guide gave a wonderful talk on the conservation work and explained the revelations which could be seen in the X-ray. Scrolls had been included in other editions of the painting but it was decided not to include these in the restoration.
In the porcelain lobby, large display cabinets were full of amazing French masterpieces: all beautifully decorated tea and table services. The entrance to the family lounge and library lay beyond. Here, in stark contrast to the art grandeur, lay the relaxing family living room with large settees; the outside terrace and rows of books completed a homely feel.
Downstairs, through the picture gallery passage, was more art work including a Rembrandt, which could have been overlooked in the stunning display of paintings. And then down a few steps more, the final room was the picture gallery. It seemed an unusual room for the house but originally had been used as a squash court. It was converted into a gallery in 1936 and now houses 15th and 16th century paintings. Light streams in from the ceiling windows, and the spacious room was a delightful finale to my house tour. Walter Samuel certainly ticked the box of creating a wonderful art gallery and stylish country house.
Outside, the gardens called, and the full glory of the house’s south terrace was seen from the main lawn. This ended abruptly with a Ha-Ha, so giving a wonderful borrowed view of the surrounding parkland. A long herbaceous border settled at the foot of the Ha-Ha, and several more borders ran down to the fabulous mirror pool, which glistened in the sun with water lilies’ leaves covering much of the surface. Reeds also bordered the pool and the wall beyond marked the end of the garden. Climbing back, I wandered through the wild garden and then the quiet orchard.
No visit to a National Trust property is complete until the delights of the café are sampled. The Pavilion Café did not disappoint and revived me for the woodland walk.
The time had then come to leave for the afternoon property, the last of our excellent trip to Royal Leamington Spa. So, no time to see the rest of the gardens. That will have to be on my next visit.
Upton House? It was an amazing mixture of art gallery and country house. Such a privilege to experience the gift to the nation from such a generous couple, Lord and Lady Bearsted.
– Arlene Coulson